The Journey to the Alcarria undertaken by Camilo José Cela in 1948 is a literary treasure. Now, this leisurely, relaxed journey is still possible in these Guadalajara lands. It can be done on foot, by bicycle or in car in a relaxed, calm manner; Cela was not exactly the fastest-paced traveller. He preferred to relax, enjoy the scenery, meet the people and explore the towns because: “the Alcarria is a beautiful country people don’t want to go to. I went there for a few days and liked it.”

Departing from Trillo, up a dirt track, we can go to the Tetas de Viana –one of the most characteristic features of the local landscape and the highest point of the Alcarria– the hike is worth it. From the summit of these hills, you will enjoy stunning views. There are two hiking routes signposted for visits from Viana de Mondéjar and from Trillo, respectively.

It’s also worth stopping in the small town of La Puerta, located in a beautiful natural setting and with a fine Roman church. Before reaching the Entrepeñas dam, we’ll find Chillarón del Rey, a town with steep alleyways, stately homes and its large church of Our Lady of the Gardens.

From the hills of Durón, there are beautiful views of the dam. The town has mansions and palaces, and a monumental parish church. Not far away, following the Tajo, we reach Budia –its main square is a faithful reflection of the simplicity and absolute beauty of its hamlet–. Before crossing the Tajo’s waters again, the beautiful highland town of El Olivar rises up.

One kilometre from Pareja, a weir with calm waters is the perfect spot for taking a dip in summer. Heading south, the road goes through Casasana to reach Córcoles. The first, between the valleys drawn by the Tajo and Guadiela; “has a very pretty colour, ranging from a darkish green to a bluish grey,” according to Cela; and before reaching the second spot –which has a magnificent church– we come across the Monsalud Monastery, a Cistercian convent well worth visiting.

Sacedón, located next to the Entrepeñas dam, is the nerve centre for enjoying nautical sports. There are stunning views from the Coronilla hill. We will finally reach Tendilla, where it’s worth taking a stroll among its typically Alcarria-style architecture.

Not far away lie Pastrana, Zorita de los Canes and the Recópolis Archaeological Park, but that’s a whole different story, and for another day.